The Ultimate Guide to Vermont's Slopes

Author: Michael Stahler

Winter is here at Middlebury, and so are the skis and snowboards. As a Vermonter, I learned to ski when I was nine years old. If I hadn't learned, I probably would have died of cabin fever long ago. Let's face it: winters here are cold, snowy and often as gray as the buildings here on campus. Skiing and riding are what make winter worth looking forward to.
It was in Woodstock, Vt., during the winter of 1934 that locals set up the nation's first ski lift. Although it was a simple rope tow, it provided fun for the townspeople and established Vermont as the home of skiing in the Northeast. We're the home of ski greats such as the Egan brothers and even a scruffy guy named Jake Burton whose "snurfer" is now the snowboard. Burton's main factory is in Burlington.
Today, Vermont is a leader in the ski industry. One can find skiing at some of the most interesting resorts: from Jay Peak's tram (the only in the state) and snow-laden glades to Sugarbush's legendary Castlerock, home of ski-icon John Egan, there's something for everyone and all of it is within reach of campus.
So now you're here. Where are the great skiing and deals? To find out the answers, read on. There's no sales pitch -- just reviews from my own candid experiences and my opinion on where you can get your snow fix this year. Here are my choice resorts arranged from closest to furthest from campus.
MIDDLEBURY COLLEGE SNOW BOWL: Twenty minutes, 16 miles from campus. It is only appropriate that I start here, because for many of you this is where you will be. This is only logical -- it's the closest and most affordable option because Middlebury College owns it. With 15 trails and three lifts, the Snow Bowl is the largest college-owned ski area in the East. Snowmaking on 40 percent of the terrain makes for reliable skiing. For beginners, those without a car or those who are happy hitting the slopes just a few days this season, the Snow Bowl is the best option.
A student pass for the season is $100. To put that into perspective, that price is equal to two days at other major resorts. This is a steal!
I'd recommend the Youngman or Ross trails for great runs. Experts will want to take on the infamous Allen where our ski team races. Watch out for the double fall line on your skier's right. The snow conditions overall are not bad, but they do get their share of icy days.
MAD RIVER GLEN: Forty minutes, 27 miles from campus.
"Ski it if you can." That's what the bumper stickers say and it's great advice -- get up there at least once in your time at Middlebury. The terrain is simply amazing and the single chair is eclectic.
With five lifts and 45 runs, there is some variety -- assuming that there's snow, since the cooperative ski area doesn't believe in snowmaking (only 16 percent coverage). I skied here last March and found friendly people and a great atmosphere. The terrain was limited due to the lack of snow. Also take note that the place is for skiers only: riders get a free ski rental if they bring their board (not a bad deal). Experts will want to take on the trail called Paradise.
If it is a snowy season, check out Mad River at least once -- for its eclectic nature, I call this a must- ski. Rates are reasonable, especially mid week.
SUGARBUSH RESORT: Forty-five minutes, 33 miles (Mt. Ellen) or 42 miles (Lincoln Peak) from campus.
In addition to Mad River, Sugarbush rounds out the Mad River Valley, well known as a hotbed for skiing. Sugarbush has 115 trails and 17 lifts distributed on three mountain peaks and covering 468 acres. The 2,650 foot vertical drop is enormous. With 68 percent snowmaking and the addition of another express four person chairlift (quad) to Mt. Ellen, there is plenty of excitement.
Mt. Ellen features stunning views, good snowmaking, fast lifts and a nice base lodge. Lincoln Peak, down the road, features Castlerock with old fashion New England terrain (no grooming or snowmaking), as well as some nice intermediate terrain. Paradise and Rumble have been proving grounds for decades. The two-mile Slide Brook Express quad connects both areas (an experience in itself). I'd recommend Upper and Lower FIS, Paradise and Brambles for unique runs.
This is another "must-ski" resort because of its variety.
KILLINGTON/PICO: One hour, 45-50 miles from campus.
In a review I wrote three years ago, I described Killington as the Wal-Mart of skiing. It is large, opens early and closes late, has almost anything you could want, but lacks character. I spent a lot of time there two seasons ago and got a better feel, but the analogy still sticks. With 31 lifts (two gondolas), 200 trails and the largest snowmaking system in the East, Killington is a monster. If you're looking for one-stop excitement, this is it. The crowds are enormous on weekends and the nightlife is the best of any ski resort. Assuming you're not tired, the Wobbly Barn and other clubs offer fun after dark.
The season runs from October through June, and the skiing I've done here has been very good. Bump runs such as Outer Limits and Superstar are renowned for their challenge, while Snowshed and Ramshead are relaxed. Experts should head to the Killington Lodge and the K1 Gondola to the summit for the best terrain. Cascade is a great run.
So Killington is too overwhelming? Try her sister, Pico. It is cheaper, smaller and has more character, and shorter lines. Pico has 1,967 vertical feet and 48 trails. Locals hang out here and will direct you, during powder days, to the Outpost area. This double chair offers some gnarly skiing on Sidewinder and Bronco. If you want more, the area's two express quads serve up plenty of other runs. I like Upper Pike to Birch Glades or Forty-Niner.
BOLTON VALLEY: One and a half hours, 65 miles from campus.
Re-emerging from bankruptcy, this is the closest resort to Burlington. The skiing is good thanks to the lake-effect snows off Lake Champlain. The night skiing, overlooking Burlington, is also very nice. I've spent two nights here and have been satisfied with the terrain and views. Be careful on the steep access road. The resort has six lifts and 52 trails with 1,625-foot vertical drop. The crowds and rates are not bad either. Spillway is intense, especially at night.
Information at press time was spotty, so check their Web site for current information.
STOWE: One and a half hours, 70 miles from campus.
Stowe is one of Vermont's legendary resorts. Unfortunately, as it has grown, so too have its rates -- so high now that it costs over $60 a day. Considering I haven't tried it, but many praise its challenging terrain, night-skiing and incredible scenery. Located on Mt. Mansfield, there are also many backcountry options. You can also access Smuggler's Notch, renowned for their novice and intermediate terrain, from Stowe's Spruce Peak area.
It's recommended that experts take on Stowe's "Front Four" while others look to the Gondola and Spruce Peak for some easier cruising terrain.
JAY PEAK: Two hours and 15 minutes, 105 miles from campus.
Four hundred-inch snow seasons, narrow chute runs under a tram, incredible glade skiing and tons of Francophones -- I'm talking about the Alps, right? No. Jay Peak stands out from the rest not just because of its distance and remoteness, but also because of its incredible off-piste (off-trail) options and amount of snow. Lake-effect snows occur almost daily. This is the only place where I've skied knee-deep powder. Jay is big: eight lifts, 2,135-foot vertical drop and 75 trails and glades.
It's a drive -- all the way up in the Northeast Kingdom eight miles south of the Canadian border. As a result, the Montreal crowds on Saturdays are enormous. Go mid week (especially during February break) and you'll have the mountain to yourself. Be aware though -- Jay is cold and windy. Call ahead before going so as not to be disappointed by closed lifts and ice. Barring this, there are many powder days there.
Jay has put in a new fixed grip quad and is now of
fering a bus to the resort from Burlington (see their Web site for more info). They also have good deals on college season passes and great discount day rates for college students ($30) and Vermonters ($36) with ID any day of the season. You can't beat it.
When you do visit, I recommend a warm-up on the steeps of Stateside and then hit the tram. Be sure to try some of the glades -- they're the best in the east (Beaver Pond Glade off the express quad is particularly excellent). Camp out at Stateside Lodge to avoid the masses. Jay is another "must ski."
LOOK FOR THE DEALS:
For the best deals, ski mid week. There are smaller crowds, cheaper rates and best conditions -- a win-win situation. College season passes are a good investment provided that you go enough. They can easily pay for themselves and some are so inexpensive that you can't refuse.
Now, repeat after me: "I will never pay full price." There are many ways to get a great deal -- visit resort Web sites, go mid week, ski half-day, buy tickets off-site at ski shops or hotels, purchase discount cards or multi-day passes/season tickets and ski during special promotions. Always bring your College ID.
TO THE SLOPES:
Unfortunately, due to space and time limitations, I can't write on every Vermont resort. Generally, the further north you go the more snow and smaller crowds you will get.
Vermont is about winter. The resorts I've selected are ones that I'm familiar with and also are ones that I have had good luck with. See you this winter!
SKI AREA WEB SITES:
Burke Mountain: skiburke.com
Bolton Valley: boltonvalleyvt.com
Jay Peak Resort: jaypeakresort.com
Killington: killington.com
Mad River Glen: madriverglen.com
Middlebury Snow Bowl: middlebury.edu/%7Esnowbowl/
Smuggler's Notch: smuggs.com
Stowe Mountain Resort: stowe.com
Sugarbush Resort: sugarbush.com
Vermont Ski Areas Association (Ski Reports and other info): skivermont.com
Road Conditions: 1-800-ICY ROAD (vermontroads.com)
SKI/RIDE TIPS:
"Ski Early, Ski Often." Get to the mountains early in the day for the best conditions. Eat lunch either at 11 a.m. or 1 p.m. to avoid the crowds. Ski at noon when lines are short.
Be aware of changing conditions due to weather and other skiers or riders.
Keep you boards sharpened and waxed for best performance and safety. Get familiar with the feel of your equipment. For tuning, take them to a shop or do it yourself to save money (you could sign up for the Winter Term ski tuning workshop).
Keep yourself in tune. Go to the gym before you head to the slopes, stay in shape, don't drink or use substances when skiing or riding.
Lastly, wear a helmet and know when to call it a day. Accidents and injuries occur mainly late in the day when conditions are poorest, when it's darkest, and when skiers or riders are most tired. Keep this in mind.