Alumna Illuminates Life of Man Who Conquered Everest

Author: David Barker

The ascent was only the beginning. On May 29, 1953, Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay became the first humans to conquer Mt. Everest. The surrounding Himalayan region dug like an ice ax into Hillary, and its hold would bring him back to Nepal soon after the headlines detailing his accomplishment faded. Little is known about Hillary after the sword of England's Queen Elizabeth II proclaimed the New Zealander a knight following the triumph of the British expedition.
Last Tuesday, Hillary's history became clearer after former National Geographic photographer Anne Keiser, Middlebury College Class of 1970, discussed Hillary's feat in conjunction with the release of her new book, "Sir Edmund Hillary and the People of Everest." Organized by Joy Bloser '06 and sponsored by the Middlebury Mountain Club (MMC), Keiser's speech and slide presentation focused on Hillary's humanitarian aid work in several "Sherpa" Villages in Nepal.
Keiser's path collided with Hillary's in 1983 through her work on a National Geographic film that celebrated the 30th anniversary of the successful summit attempt. She quickly became fascinated with Hillary's quiet devotion to the Sherpa people and accompanied him on several of his trips.
In the first years following his ascent of Everest, Hillary returned to the region to scale other Himalayan peaks and conduct research on the effects of altitude on the human body, but his lingering presence in the area stemmed from a different motivation.
"I came here for the mountains and I stay for the people," Hillary said to Keiser.
In 1961, Hillary founded the Himalayan Trust, a grassroots organization that focused on improvements such as education and health services in remote Sherpa communities. Without roads or electricity, the Sherpa's existence centered around growing potatoes and raising yaks. On the 1953 expedition, 36 Sherpas accompanied the 13 mountaineers. Having lived in the shadow of the Himalayas since the 16th century, the Sherpas physical aplomb in high-altitude environments made them valuable climbing partners for the British team.
Relationships that Hillary built while scaling the Himalayas served him well when he returned. The Himalayan Trust's first project began in Khumjung, where according to Keiser, Hillary asked the Sherpas what they needed most. If they needed a school, Hillary would respond, "Together, we shall build a school."
"Having the Sherpas identify their own needs has kept them engaged in their community and endowed them with the will to take responsibility for their needs," Keiser said. Over the years, the Sherpas have completed 27 schools and two hospitals. Their salaries are covered by the Trust. While the construction process was collaborative, the doctors and teachers are trained Sherpas.
Keiser's slides highlighted some of the success stories that have arisen from Hillary's aid to the Sherpa communities. He brought together New Zealand foresters and Nepalese ecologists to establish Sagamartha National Park in order to control the negative effects of tourism on the wilderness surrounding Mount Everest. One of the Sherpas to graduate from the first Khomjung School is now a World Wildlife Fund Director for Asia and the Pacific and has contributed to the reforestation of areas in Sagamartha and around the village. Another Sherpa who is a commercial airlines pilot in Germany became interested in flying after watching supply planes enter and leave the village via the airstrip that Hillary helped build in Khomjung. Both Sherpas received college scholarships from the Trust.
Western influences seen in tourism and the popularity of Everest have produced visible changes in the villages and landscape. Hillary and Norgay's successful expedition has been followed by over 1200 other climbers. The impact of eco-tourism has led to the outlawing of wood fires. Sherpa diets based on potatoes have been infiltrated by tooth-rotting soft drinks. Electricity in the villages has brought in computers and cyber cafes. Recently, tourism has dropped 80 percent because of Maoist insurgency in the area.
At age 83, Hillary's role in the area is becoming more limited. The Trust is focusing more on transferring responsibilities to the Sherpas in order to continue a strong influx of aid into the Sherpa communities. Royalties from Keiser's book go to non-profit organizations like the Himalayan Trust. New Zealand is also making a substantial donation to the aid effort in recognition of the 50th anniversary of its countryman's feat.
After having written three books on Hillary, Keiser's admiration of the modest and determined mountaineer who as a child was too small to play sports remains strong. "While so many people that become famous and globally known use their fame for personal gain, Hillary chose to use his fame to help others [the Sherpas] who really needed help." Fifty years later, the ascent continues.