The Local Flavor

Author: Michael Ives

Eat Good Food is an eccentric establishment. Nestled at 221 Main Street in Vergennes, an Andy Warhol-esque sign with a screaming woman beckons the hungry visitor to come inside. My friends and I bypassed the charming patio, as Vermont's short-lived outdoor dining season was decidedly over, and headed inside.

Opening the rustic screen door, I said hello to the friendly folks at the counter and turned my attention to the chalkboard menu. It listed an impressive collection of "panino" sandwiches. (The term is a playful variation on the classic "panini." Instead of a pressed baguette, the "panino" sandwich ingredients inside chewy, foccacia-like bread.) We ordered a panino combination of black forest ham and swiss with dijon mustard, another with goat cheese, grilled red onion and summer squash, and still another panino with teriyaki flank steak and garlic mayonnaise. I checked out the mini grocery store enclave and selected a bag of GMO-free chips before we sat down at a cozy wooden table. We contentedly sipped hot cider while waiting for our food to be called up in typical deli style.

But we soon discovered that Eat Good Food isn't a typical deli. I assumed we had stumbled into a humble, local haunt, but there's more Vermont sophistication to it than its homey exterior leads you to first believe. I looked around the room again and noticed a full wine list and selection of exotic cheeses. Also, the racks from which I had selected my chips were loaded with expensive olive oil and cocktail refreshments. When I stopped smelling around for a moment, I realized that classical music was playing on surround-sound. In fact, if it hadn't been for the pick-ups parked outside, I might have imagined myself lounging in lower Manhattan with some avant-garde artists instead of with my muddy friends, fresh off Mount Abraham.

My observations about Eat Good Food's sophistication was confirmed when an unexpected waitress came over and put silverware and napkins in front of us - no counter service here. I checked the menu to make sure an extra digit hadn't been attached to my sandwich's $4.95 price.

Our paninos were excellent, although the portions were smallish for four famished hikers. (Eat Good Food is definitely best enjoyed as lunch or light dinner). Afterwards, we visited the food display at the counter, where we found hearty pecan squares to devour.

In short, Eat Good Food is not a no-frills, turkey club-ish deli with a little bit of sophistication on the side. I think they have extracted the best from both urban and country worlds - stylized, international fare with some local service and ambience. Frills can be delicious at the right price.