The Local Flavor Starry Night Cafe

Author: Andrea M. LaRocca

If Van Gogh had been a chef instead of a painter, Starry Night CafÈ would arguably have been his masterpiece. This local, gourmet restaurant is in Ferrisburgh on Route 7, and you could easily drive past it on your way to Burlington - but don't. Save yourself half the trip (the cafÈ is only 20 minutes from campus), and you'll still get the quality atmosphere, food and service that you were driving to Burlington for.

From outside, Starry Night CafÈ looks like a small, typical Vermont restaurant. Inside, however, it will outshine your expectations. The restaurant is decorated with a modern, Fifth Avenue touch - the copper-topped wooden tables are accented with sleek black chairs, artistically contemporary lights hang from the ceiling and the bar is a woodcarving masterpiece. The interior is simply beautiful, a true dining oasis. Even the shape of the dining room - an octagon - is innovative. Beware, however, for sound echoes in this sparsely decorated restaurant. Sometimes you might feel like you're not only eating in a New York City restaurant but are also trying to talk over the hum of New York City.

Like the atmosphere, the menu is modern and gourmet - not to mention local and organic. Several dishes feature in-season products of the local farmers, but almost every dish has a local and/or organic twist, such as housemade cheddar crackers or local roasted beets. In short, it's environmentally conscious gourmet food for both the Vermonter and the visitor.

The menu includes an original selection of appetizers, such as the roasted buttercup squash and apple soup with cinnamon crËme fraiche ($5.50) and the grilled sea scallops with sweet potato gnocchi and cranberry chutney ($8). Normal appetizer favorites, such as calamari, are also deliciously redefined at Starry Night. Appetizers range from $5.50-$8.

Save room, though, because the true Starry Night dinner is four courses - appetizer, salad, entrÈe and dessert. The salad selection is the restaurant's best showcase of the local and seasonal products, with simple salads such as mixed greens with white balsamic and lemon vinaigrette ($4.50) or more adventurous salads such as grilled sweet potatoes, roasted pear, pomegranates and mixed greens with ginger balsamic vinaigrette ($6.50). For between $4.50 and $7.50, the salads are small, but they are the best opportunity to experiment with your gourmet taste buds - the strange Starry Night combinations are surprisingly delicious.

Likewise, you may be daunted by the entrÈe selections because of words like hominy grits, parsnip lorette potatoes or fiery rouille. But if you don't know what it is, don't worry - at Starry Night, the gourmet flavor puts taste before style. The grilled black angus N.Y. strip steak with spicy chipotle butter, parsnip lorette potatoes and baby carrots ($21) is excellent, as is the grilled mahi mahi with roasted spaghetti squash, spinach, smoked tomato buerre blanc and braised fennel tapenade ($20). (And that's coming from a girl who doesn't like fish.) Other entrees include pork, seafood, lamb and pasta (vegetarian) and have equally tasteful twists, all for between $14 and $22 per plate.

The dessert menu is especially seasonal. It features an assortment from tarts to crËme brulee to ice cream. Likewise, the large selection of wines, the cocktail specials (try the Perfect Champagne Cocktail) and the full bar add to the gourmet experience. For the whole meal, the expensive prices are worth the food that you get. And you won't leave hungry - Starry Night thankfully does not conform to the stereotypical meagerness of gourmet food.

Parents and girlfriends will especially love Starry Night CafÈ, but be sure to make reservations for the weekends and busy times, such as Fall Family Weekend and graduation. During the week, Starry Night usually isn't too busy, though, so that's a great time to visit if you're looking for a relaxing dinner. Also, on one Thursday every month, the bluegrass band "The Meatpackers" will serenade your dinner. Any time is worth the trip and the money, though. And I think Van Gogh would agree.