The Local Flavor

Author: Daniel L. J. Phillips, associate editor

The long, downhill walk into town can prove rewarding if you stop and treat yourself to a meal at Storm Café on Mill Street, but the place does not deserve the reputation as one of the best restaurants around. Nestled within Frog Hollow Mill along the bank of Otter Creek, Storm Café has a rather warm and lively ambience despite the cold, granite exterior of the restored building. The walls and paintings brighten the space and its low ceilings with shades of orange and yellow, while the occasional spicy dish equally livens up the food on your plate.

As is the posture of most restaurants this time of year, the chef was still presenting the summer menu, but told us to look out for upcoming changes with their fall fare. Bring an appetite when you come, because almost every dish is heaped on the plate and full of flavour. The spicy steamed mussels, roasted garlic & potato soup, Bloody Mary shrimp and Thai Chicken skewers are the highlights of the appetizers. Be sure to order the small portions if you are planning on a main course and dessert. Their three salad offerings are not very exciting, but you can add Cajun shrimp or chicken to suit your fancy.

The entrées are enormous and filling, packed with all kinds of starchy ingredients. I would stay away from the pasta and try one of their signature dishes, like the chicken & Italian sausage, the gorgonzola polenta or the Spanish paella. For the serious meat eater, the grilled beef tenderloin is definitely the best choice on the menu. The main courses are all garnished with incredibly fresh seasoned vegetables, and the Yukon Gold mashed potatoes are dreamy.

The wine list is heavily drawn from California, mostly by unknown producers. For a refreshing taste of something different, try starting off with the Gruet Blanc de Noir sparkling wine from New Mexico, which also comes in half-bottles. This New World champagne equivalent is made purely from the Pinot Noir grape, and shows a hint of red fruits with light acidity and a surprisingly smooth finish. With my entrée I tried the California Pinot Noir, and found it rather dull when paired with the richness of the food. I would either stay with one of the Chardonnays with seafood, or try the Shiraz or a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon with the spicier meat dishes.

While you still can, take advantage of the early autumn weather on their outdoor terrace along the riverside for a long lunch or early dinner. Their afternoon fare is a standard array of soups and salads, along with grilled sandwiches, panini and wraps.

A three-course dinner at Storm Café is taxing on a student's budget - about $45 per person with wine - but with two parents' weekends coming up, it is a fantastic choice if you are starving and want to stay close to campus.