The Local Flavor

Author: Sean P. Breen

Mary's Restaurant, part of the Inn at Baldwin Creek in Bristol, is a much-loved secret among Middlebury's dining-out crowd. The 20-minute drive north of Middlebury along Route 116 is especially beautiful during the fall season as the leaves begin to change and the sun is still only setting around the dining hour. Even before entering the cozy interior, diners can see that Chef-Owner Douglas Mack maintains only the finest herb, vegetable and fruit gardens.

The menu is beautifully written and carefully crafted, but despite the freshness of the ingredients, I was disappointed to find most dishes lacking in flavor and concentration. The famous Cream of Garlic Soup is certainly worth the trip and remains the highlight of the meal, but by no means does it justify Mary's legendary status.

Offering a wide range of appetizers and salads, as well as a bistro menu of "small pleasures," Mary's has something for everyone. For starters, be sure to try the aforementioned Cream of Garlic Soup, which was hailed "The best soup in Vermont" by VT Magazine last year. As Mary's shifts over to their fall menu, also look for the seasonal Pumpkin Bisque.

Other notable appetizers include the Portobello Bruschetta and Duck & Colby Quesadilla. The bruschetta is served atop warm sour dough and drizzled with red pepper pesto and rosemary aioli - the quesadilla is served on homemade tortilla with avocado with relish and smoked tomato salsa. Salads are deliciously fresh and change daily based on the fresh available ingredients from the restaurant's herb and vegetable garden.

Moving along to the main dishes allows the chef's creativity to shine. "On the Street Where We Live" is Mack's daily changing cut of elk from the neighboring Red-Rock Deer and Elk farm. Meat lovers will also enjoy "South Bound," a sherry-peanut marinated duck breast, or "Dancing in the Moonlight," a soy-glazed beef tenderloin.

Vegetarians will appreciate the "Maple Pesto Tempeh" served with a wild mushroom sauce. For those who just cannot decide, order "Kitchen Confidential" and the chef will serve a tasting of his two favorite entrées. The dessert menu is long and delicious, offering such dishes as Bananas Foster, Chocolate Mousse Crepes, Decadent Chocolate Pie and Blackberry Crumble á la mode.

I ordered the special for the evening - pork tenderloin served with roasted apples and glazed with maple syrup - and found it overcooked and a bit dry. The wild Alaskan salmon was impressive, but the flavor of the dish was overwhelmed by a heavy vegetable and garlic sauce. I ordered another special for dessert - Apple Pie with Pumpkin Ice Cream - which did not deliver the taste and sweetness I had hoped for and anticipated.

The beverage menu at Mary's, however, is one of the best around. The wine list offers a number of classic varietals from France and Spain, with some New World options as well, and some excellent selections among the whites. The house chardonnay was drinkable, but heavily oaked, and so was the house Cabernet Sauvignon, both from California. Despite this, each pairs beautifully with the robust and gamey menu and will not leave a hole in the wallet.

Mary's also offers a Martini menu with both Vodka and Gin based selection. The "French '75'" made with Vodka, Cointreau, Chambord and lemon juice is a solid choice, and if you are not driving, finish off your evening with the Cappuccino Martini.

Mary's is a good, but not great restaurant. It offers a well-prepared, thoughtful menu that is intellectually stimulating, but fails to live up to its potential. The décor feels like a family dining room with its creaky carpeted floors, low ceilings and deep red painted walls. The service is helpful and informative, but a little aggressive and heavy-handed.

Nevertheless, Mary's carries a certain swagger with its Vermont pride and homey, down-to-earth dishes. This is a must-try for those who have not yet visited and the perfect place to take the parents for a true taste of Vermont's character.