The Local Flavor

Author: Rachel Durfee

There is a newcomer in town whose menu offers a return to the quintessential culinary classic often overshadowed by nouveau gourmet trends. Instead of boasting courses concocted in the now old-news Italian, Asian or Fusion schools, this new restaurant serves dishes derived from the French school, the pinnacle of traditional gourment cuisine. Café Provence, located in quaint downtown Brandon, Vt. (about 17 miles south of Middlebury, down Route 7), has been dishing out delicious plates of French food since its successful opening last July. Though the food is sophisticated, you don't have to track down a French major to read the menu - the bistro is unpretentious, welcoming and well worth the drive.

Lunches are ideal for those whose wallets feel a little lighter than usual, while dinners provide the opportunity to splurge, either for a special date or when the parents are in town. Popular and reasonably priced lunchtime options can be found among the number of fresh salads - with homemade dressings, croutons and melt-in-your-mouth soft cheeses - soups and thin-crust pizzas ($8.95 and enough for two people). The delicious fall salad of mixed mesclun greens with a small cake of goat cheese and cranberry chutney is one of the many tasty yet inexpensive, lunchtime options.

For dinner or for hungry lunchtime clients, appetizers such as shrimp scampi, pumpkin ravioli in an apple sauce and mussels Provencal are excellent starters for the main course. Dinner entrees include lamb, tenderloin, duck and assorted seafood dishes for $12 to $20. The seafood stew was a hit and did not skimp on the mussels, shrimp and scallops which were complemented by the thin yet flavorful lobster tarragon broth. The special, salmon served with seared scallops, spaghetti squash and vegetable ratatouille, was also praiseworthy. Lamb chops with a puff pastry and garlic mashed potatoes, as well as the beet risotto with scallops and asparagus, left diners with some difficult decisions over what to order. Luckily all plates were within arms-reach for plenty of sharing.

Although by the time you have finished your entrée you may wish you had worn pants with a less binding waistband, do not skip dessert. Chocolate Bombe cake - a soft chocolate cake with a liquid chocolate center served with vanilla ice cream - along with refreshing sorbets and apple crisp on raspberry coulis are some of the mouth-watering finales for around $6.

Somewhat hidden above Everywear clothing shop, Café Provence is a worthwhile stop for those lucky enough to spot it. On warm days, enjoy your meal out on the patio, or dine in the softly lit interior, with large picture windows and Provencal décor, that will keep you comfortable and warm during the winter months. Grab a seat by the open kitchen to watch dishes emerge cooked and garnished to perfection. Following French tradition, the food always looks just as good as it tastes.

The wait staff is friendly and knowledgeable and although the service is a bit slow, that is all part and parcel of the European charm. So sit back and relax, and if you are over 21, do so with a glass of wine - all bottles are selected from family-owned French vineyards.

Early riser? Stop in for breakfast Tuesday to Sunday, 7-10 a.m. or weekend brunch Saturdays and Sundays between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. There is a pastry case in the front filled with fresh baked muffins, tarts, croissants and crème brulee. The menu changes seasonally, so diners will never be bored with the same old options, though don't worry if you've found your favorite: the accommodating kitchen will hunt down ingredients and do the best they can to recreate past creations.