The Local Flavor

Author: Andrea Glaessner and Josh Carson

There are many things that Middlebury has just one of: one post office, one movie theater and one liquor store. And until recently, the town had only one Chinese restaurant, but with the arrival of China House, there is now a second. Located in the lot adjacent to Fire & Ice on Seymour Street, the newcomer offers the standard smorgasboard of Chinese food favorites, including fried rice, lo mein noodles and the always-popular "General Tso's Chicken." But China House also offers unique specials, one of which is infused with Singaporean-style cuisine.

Be advised that this is not a traditional sit-down restaurant. Two signs hang above the counter - which functions as the only dividing structure in the small edifice - situated between the main dining area and the large, open kitchen. Follow one sign to order and another to pick-up. The simplicity of the ordering system is a microcosm for the restaurant - a quick meal that easily satisfies the Chinese food craving without squeezing your budget. Just walk right up to the counter, place your order and head back to the dorm.

If you prefer to dine inside, the restaurant does have several tables. Diners recieve the option to watch as the chefs sizzle and stir-fry the food to perfection in the open kitchen behind the register. The chicken fried rice was quite satisfying: the rice was cooked to perfection and lightly stir-fried with onions, peas, carrots and Oriental spices. Make sure to specify which kind of fried rice you prefer, or the waiters will assume pork fried rice. That and a pork egg roll are the standard side dishes that accompany the platters. The platters, at only $6.95, are also a good deal, including an entree, the pork fried rice and a pork egg roll. For another favorite done well, try the chicken with garlic sauce. The Kung pao chicken platter was also tasty, featuring a mound of tender chicken chunks mixed with crisp bell peppers, crunchy peanuts and sprinkled with hot crushed red pepper, all smothered in a delectable Chinese sauce.

The dumplings and wonton soup were both great appetizers, but order a small wonton soup if you order anything else, or expect to take it home. The large size soup was only $2.50, but it was quite a large size. As for the dumplings, they come in an order of six, but each one is also exceptionally large and filling. Beware of the fried dumplings, they are very good but greasy - for a slightly less caloric dumpling opt for the steamed version.

The prices were as satisfying as the meal. A kung pao chicken platter, large wonton soup, order of six dumplings, and two bottled drinks came to a whopping grand total of $16.49. A few dishes were a bit pricier, including shrimp and other seafood dishes. But the platters by far offered the best bang for your buck. Mostly $5.95 and $6.95, the platters feature an entree from a list of many classic Chinese favorites from Sesame chicken to beef with broccoli to shrimp with garlic sauce. Soup and dumplings or other appetizers are also a cheap and filling option.

All the food is sure to make you thirsty. There is a large refrigerator next to the counter fully stocked with bottled water, juices, tea and soda. The atmosphere is decidedly one of a casual take-out restaurant where you get what you expect: a lot of Chinese food for not a lot of money. One word of advice - if you do in fact opt to eat your food at China House, be prepared to endure the lingering smell of Chinese food that will certainly follow you around for the next several days (i.e., don't wear your favorite fleece).