Professor introduces local farming

Author: Mallory Falk

Visiting Professor Will Stevens' J-Term class is anything but conventional. In "Eating Locally, Thinking Globally," students analyze their personal food histories and prepare dishes from scratch. They frequent local farms, visit an orchard or two and speak with beekeepers and berry specialists. "It's important for me that folks put a face on farming," Stevens said recently. "[I want to] enhance students' appreciation for what brought them to this campus."

A farmer himself, Stevens uses personal experience as a context for the course. Originally from Western New York, he moved to Vermont in the late 70s. "You can be someone in Vermont," he said. "Who you are and what you do matters…I wanted to be a part of that." Stevens and his wife spent several years in crafts but soon turned to farming. They started small - selling apples at the Burlington Farmer's Market - then purchased a half-acre of land in Shoreham. What began as an "overgrown home garden" soon developed into Golden Russet Farm. Now over 20 years old, the farm provides Vermonters with fresh produce throughout the summer, fall and winter.

The farm's success lies in what Stevens terms "relational marketing." He and his wife sell their vegetables directly from the farm, as well as at farm stands and farmer's markets. As part of the Community Supported Agriculture program, townspeople may stop by the farm on a weekly basis and collect whatever is in season." Since there is no middleman, the Stevens come to know their customers well. "It's all about relationships," Stevens said. As he has written on the Golden Russet Web site, this system "strengthens the link between producers and consumers" and "keep[s] food dollars close to home."

Stevens' personal approach to farming has paid off. In 2004, Golden Russet was named Sustainable Farm of the Year. And there is never a shortage of helpers. The farm attracts many recent college graduates, people who, according to Stevens, are "tired of using their brains [and] just want to use their bodies." The farm provides a place where "people can grow while helping things grow," Stevens said, adding, "it's a school of life."

Now, Stevens hopes to communicate his farming experience to Middlebury students. His class, which was first offered last winter, has already become a hit. This is largely because of his engaging teaching style. Stevens believes that students learn best from interaction with others - hence the mid-January meeting with a local cheese maker - and he also encourages debate. For those still not sold on the course, there is Stevens' homemade apple cider - a standard on the first day of class. And the lesson plan is appealing as well. By pairing such reads as "Fast Food Nation" with visits to Champlain Orchard and the Crawford Family Farm, he introduces students to global and local movements and presents a variety of perspectives on farming.

In dividing his time between Middlebury and Golden Russet Farm, at least for one winter month, Stevens is able to serve the Addison Country on several fronts. He contributes to the agricultural community and local college scene, all the while teaching and learning from students, employees and customers. "I think I have something to offer that might be of benefit to others," he said. "I love sharing my experiences."