The Local Flavor

Author: Sean P. Breen

The Black Sheep Bistro is certainly the most "European" of restaurants easily available to Middlebury students. As the former chef of the famed Starry Night Café in Ferrisburgh, Michel Mahe opened Black Sheep Bistro in 2002 with the vision of a simple French bistro and an uncomplicated pricing strategy - all appetizers are the same price, as are all entrées. Mahe grew up in his family's French restaurant in New York City and was educated at Cornell's highly regarded School of Hotel Administration.

Located in the historic town of Vergennes, Black Sheep Bistro could easily be a small restaurant in the south of France or northern Spain. The café defines the meaning of "elegant simplicity." The atmosphere is understated with cream-yellow walls covered in a multiplicity of small French caricatures and cartoons. Patrons are seated at square wooden tables without tablecloths, and small modest silverware is placed on cotton napkins.

The rustic setting, however, only adds to the environment. Like the atmosphere, the cuisine is rustic, but is flawlessly executed and prepared with "super fresh" ingredients. While the menu does not change often, frequent diners are continually satisfied. In accordance with its French country image, wild fowl and red meat are the stars of the menu, but there are also a number of fish and pasta dishes for the less carnivorous. To begin with, the winter menu hosts a legendary pumpkin bisque soup: a thick, creamy concoction that is at once sweet and spicy - a pure delight. Alternatively, the fresh salmon cakes or the lobster ravioli are both prime choices as appetizers. For main dishes, the roasted duck breast served with an au jus demi-glaze sauce is heavenly. For red meat lovers, the lamb and the filet mignon are both terrific. In the winter, I tend to stay away from fish dishes, but the Black Sheep Bistro's salmon is a rustic, full-flavored fish that stands up to the cold very well and is prepared excellently by Mahe.

Like most French restaurants, especially those specializing in country cuisine, dessert can be hard to muster at the end of the meal, but I beg you, save room. With classical dishes such as crème brulée and apple tart tatin, Mahe also offers some distinctly American dishes, such as the heart -warming chocolate chip cookies served with a tall glass of milk. Could it get any better?

On the beverage front, the list is rather short, but very good. Wines are broken up by price and bottles range from $20 to $30. A number of good wines are scattered throughout the price ranges. To recommend one: the Jaboulet Aine Cotés Du Rhone "Parallel 45" is a terrific example of the syrah grape grown in the Rhone Valley of southern France and pairs nicely with the earthy tones in the food. Of course, beer is also an option with three on tap: a stout, oatmeal ale and a wheat beer. All are nice, but I tend to favor the wheat beer since it is full bodied and works nicely with the gamey food.

The simplicity of the dishes, combined with the chef's talent, makes every meal a delight. Service is a bit ad hoc, but always friendly, with a casual but romantic setting. For four years, Black Sheep has been a welcomed retreat, and I would recommend it to anyone. As my roommate says, "the place is nothing short of amazing."