The Local Flavor

Author: Joshua Carson

Something revolutionary occurred last weekend in the town of Middlebury - a new restaurant opened. Expanding from its flagship store in Vergennes, Eat Good Food has opened a second location on Main Street right next to the Alpine Shop, ushering in a fresh perspective on dining to the Middlebury area. Steeped in the Italian philosophy that eating is not just a means towards sustenance but is something to be savored and enjoyed, Eat Good Food offers a limited, yet carefully selected, sampling of Italian-influenced dishes at moderate prices and is sure to become a Middlebury mainstay.

With high ceilings and open-brick walls, the interior of the restaurant is spacious and welcoming. Diners can choose between an upper seating area with tables and a lower area with bench seating. The upper area offers more room and privacy, but the bench area would be great for a group. And for those who pay attention to the little things, the salt and pepper shakers are pretty cool.

The atmosphere was charged for the opening night last Saturday and by 7:30 p.m. the place was packed. Despite an initial request for patience from the pleasant, but understandably anxious, hostess, the meal went off without a hitch. The service was very polite and helpful, making recommendations and providing personal opinions on wine, entrees and deserts. But the real surprise was the food. In keeping with Italian tradition, Eat Good Food purchases products from local producers, such as beef, chicken, cheese, eggs, fruit and vegetables. The fresh local ingredients combined with an Italian flair produced an innovative and unique flavor. Interesting appetizers include a beet and shaved fennel salad ($8) and grilled octopus with wheatberry and salsa verde salad ($9). As for entrees, the lamb shank ($21) was excellent. Served with stewed tomato and celeriac, the tender meat was practically falling off the bone. This dish is highly recommended. The bay-roasted chicken with liver crostini and grilled radicchio ($16) is a safe choice. While there is nothing intrinsically striking about the dish, the balsamic sauce complemented the chicken well.

It's not a bad idea to order one of the side dishes to round out the meal, especially if you are feeling particularly hungry. Other entrée choices include fava bean ravioli with sautéed fennel ($17), pork rib agrodolce and broccoli rabe ($19) and a steak ($22).

And don't leave before perusing the dessert menu. The mocha chocolate soufflé ($7) was the perfect finale to a delicious meal - cool and crispy on the outside, warm and gooey on the inside. The lavender crème brulée ($5) is was also exceptional. The faint taste of lavender is a tasteful twist on a traditional French dessert. Eat Good Food also offers a wide selection of coffee.

Overall, Eat Good Food is a great choice for any special occasion. While a little pricey to visit regularly on a College budget, it should be added to the list of eateries when the parents are in town or you're looking for a classy meal right down the street.