Rock climbers flock to scale Nelson's wall Middlebury unable to compete in competition due to hosting regulations

Author: Jake Cohen

Last Sunday, Middlebury was home to the third New England climbing competition this year. Climbers from Bates, Colby, Dartmouth, UVM, RPI and Miami of Ohio came to represent their schools and display their talents on the rock wall.

In pursuance with climbing competition rules, no Middlebury students participated in the contest - the hosting institution may not compete in climbing events. Even so, Middlebury students have climbed at two other competitions, or "comps," this year. Both Dartmouth and Williams have each hosted a contest earlier this year.

Each school put up strong results, but Dartmouth came out the clear victor. Senior James Joslin won first place in the men's advanced category. He took very challenging routes and produced smooth, commendable moves. His co-competitor, junior Laura Case, took first place in the advanced category for women. Strong competition from all teams made the contest challenging, but these two climbers were clearly at the best of the field.

There are two main types of climbing competitions. Bouldering consists of climbing the wall without the assistance of ropes and protection, whereas top-roping does provide a safety line. Top-roping generally yields higher climbs. Competitors are awarded points for every route or problem (assigned route) completed. Routes are marked by colored tape up the wall and range in difficulty. More difficult routes are generally awarded more points. Climbers must complete as many routes as possible in an allotted time period, typically three hours. By the end of their run, the top 10 routes are totaled up for a final score.

Climbing competitions are divided into three categories for men and women: beginner, intermediate and advanced. After the top routes of each competitor are calculated, a final round is held for the top three advanced finishers. In the final, climbers are set against each other. A finalist has 5 minutes to complete a new, often difficult and never-before-seen route.

Located in Nelson Recreational Center, the rock wall is a state-of-the-art facility. Co-Head Monitors Lynne Zummo '06 and Jay Fitzgerald '06 have done a fantastic job managing the wall and expanding its use.

Fitzgerald has seen "tremendous growth over the last couple of years in terms of the number of new climbers." Many Middlebury students who are new to rock climbing are introduced on MOO trips or fellow students who took MOO trips. From there, the sport seems to have grown expansively.

Fitzgerald has taught many new climbers the fundamentals of this "outdoorsy" sport. He notes that "climbing is starting to be accepted more as a safe, mainstream sport/physical activity and it is wonderful that the wall can provide a place for people to begin to learn." Many students have utilized the wall as an alternative means of exercise - something many students at Middlebury hold dear.

First-year Annie Onishi is a perfect example of a new student being introduced to, and falling in love with, rock climbing. "I had very little experience with climbing before I got to Middlebury, so I took the PE class." From there, Annie has developed herself into a competitive climber, winning third place in both competitions held at Dartmouth and Williams this year.

Middlebury is unique when it comes to rock climbing since it provides many opportunities for students to explore the sport both indoors and out.

Onishi took advantage of the Middlebury Mountain Club by taking trips to Acadia National Park in Maine over fall break. From here, she decided to take her ability to the next level. "Since the winter started, I've been spending a lot of time at the wall getting stronger and working on my technique, and the other, more experienced climbers have been really helpful and welcoming." Clearly, her efforts have paid off.

Onishi and Fitzgerald both want to encourage inexperienced climbers to test their skills and hone their abilities at the wall. "People shouldn't be afraid to get involved climbing," explains Onishi. "We like to think we're all hardcore, but in reality, the scene is laid back and not that intense at all. Climbing is a great and interesting sport to get into, so people should give it a try."