The Local Flavor

Author: Jack Lysohir

Travel north to Bristol, Vt. to enjoy a scenic, gracious setting as well as a decent meal at Mary's Restaurant at The Inn at Baldwin Creek. Mary's Restaurant is a perennial favorite of Middlebury parents looking to take their kids somewhere a bit more formal than the usual Middlebury fare. Nestled in the warm and welcoming Inn at Baldwin Creek, Mary's offers Americana dishes at reasonable prices. Mary's is highly reputed in central Vermont, and for $48 one can have a cooking lesson from the head chef. Mary's is open for dinner from Wednesday to Sunday and also for brunch on Sunday.

To start, one must delight in the cream of garlic soup, which sits at the top of the menu garnished with a quote from VT Magazine, "The Best Soup in Vermont." The soup is delicious; the garlic flavor is not overwhelming enough to avoid if you're on a date, and the soup's consistency is utter perfection. The warm loaf of homemade bread at each table only improves the garlic soup and other starters. One can't go wrong with the spring salad or house salad - both are delicious and speak to Mary's use of local produce. (Mary's is a founding member of the Vermont Fresh Network.) Although tempting, one should veer away from the mixed Satay starter - Satay simply doesn't complement the entrees, and mixed Satay (chicken, beef and steak) is never good.

For the rest of Mary's menu, "maple" is the operative word. The chicken-under-brick, a Misty Knoll Farms breast, griddled under brick and served with maple-balsamic reduction is delectable. However, the vegetable side with the chicken-under-brick is a flavorless mix of over-cooked asparagus, peppers and tomatoes that unfortunately is found hidden in many of the other entrees. The beef tenderloin is also a good choice; the cut from nearby Boyden Farms is wrapped in prosciutto and sautéed, finished with a goat cheese brulee. The specials sounded like you could not possibly go wrong, but the grilled tuna steak with a maple glaze was surprisingly far under-cooked and the thick cut did not prove palatable with the sloppy asparagus, pepper and tomato cacophony. If one is really looking for a full (and cumbersome) meal, the Kitchen Confidential allows for two entrees on a single plate.

The menu also boasts a variety of bistro entrees such as a steak sandwich, Spring flatbread pizza and some interesting burger choices. Whatever problems Mary's has with its main courses, they are more than remedied with its dessert menu. The maple crème brulee is incredible and makes one wonder why all crème brulees are not glazed in a homemade Vermont maple syrup. The crepes and flavorful chocolate cheesecake are also delicious, filling options.

For a pleasant drive outside of Middlebury, the Inn at Baldwin Creek is a fine destination. The starters and desserts are wonderful, and thus the price-fixed dinner is the obvious choice for evening eating. However, the entrees in total are disappointing, especially because of the lack of cohesion; the tuna, chicken and salmon do not all go with asparagus. Plan on a family dinner at Mary's in their main dining room or in the private guest room. Plan on a warm environment with good service and good wine, and great desserts. Just don't plan on total satisfaction with your entrée.