localflavor Author of cheese-themed book plays host to talk and cheese-tasting

Author: Sasha Swerdloff

I have always learned best at the table, surrounded by good food and good conversation. I found both at The Inn at Baldwin Creek outside of Bristol, Vt. The Inn hosts the Table Talk Series - a monthly dinner event exploring various food-related topics. The subject of the March 14 talk was "A Celebration of Regional Artisan Cheese" featuring Jeff Roberts, author of "The Atlas of American Artisan Cheese" and a true connosseiur.

I descended into a rosy, warm dining room, with a low ceiling supported by robust wooden beams. A wood fire crackled in the fireplace and a pair of antique skis rested in the corner, depicting the scene of a quintessential Vermont country inn.

I was ushered to a table where a young couple sat, casually conversing with a portly, gray-haired, balding man with round glasses, who introduced himself as Roberts. It was not long before I learned all about Roberts' fascination with cheese. Sitting back in his chair, belly protruding, lips pursed tight over his teeth, Roberts explained, "I like eating." So do I.

Over the course of the meal, we heard Roberts' life story - a non-linear progression from History major studying the spatial patterns of Philadelphia, to Navy meteorologist and veterinarian, through his work with the Vermont Land Trust, and finally to his part-time teaching job at the New England Culinary Institute. Over the low buzz of conversation and jazz music his intonation rose and fell as we savored the rich earthiness of mushroom Wellington and pork loin, filling our stomachs as he filled our minds.

Backlit by the fireplace, Roberts delved into the recent expansion of artisan cheese making. He cited the fact that 345 artisan cheeses are now made in 44 states, half of which have emerged in the last decade. In his talk Roberts touched on the link between the artisan cheese market and the growing slow-food movement in a changing economy.

Finally the highlight of the evening arrived. Jeff began his survey of seven American artisan cheeses from across the country. Saucers of local honey and jam hovered in the hands of the waitresses before settling onto the table, followed by a round plate with an assortment of cheeses. "Use your fingers," said Roberts and we all giggled with childish delight, letting go of the formalities we assumed throughout dinner.

We began with a triple cream from Vergennes, Vt. Each cheese-tasting was accompanied by a brief explanation by Roberts. According to Roberts, this cheese, made from cow's milk, is designated as triple cream because of the level of extra cream added after the whey is removed. I held the morsel of pale, runny cheese between two fingers and inhaled its clean aroma. Popping the entire piece into my mouth, I immediately felt the thick, rich substance coat my palate. My taste buds drowned in the freshness of mushrooms and the bitterness of the rind. Sucking on a crostini dripping in honey, I prepared for the next sample.

The second cheese, Humboldt Fog, is a goat's milk cheese from Arcata, Cal. It is made from frozen curd and layered and coated in vegetable ash, changing the ph and encouraging fermentation. Tying in a bit of cheese history, Roberts explained that the ash was originally used to keep flies from destroying the cheese and to separate the morning and afternoon milk. I scooped up a piece and one half crumbled as the other seeped through the tongs of my fork. I rolled it around in my mouth, savoring the tingling saltiness.

The third cheese, from Niwot, Colo., is called Red Cloud for its bright orange, undulating, brine-washed rind. "Remember, cheeses are alive," warned Roberts. I inhaled deeply and impulsively recoiled. A typical "stinky" cheese, the Red Cloud suffused the air with a pungent aroma and my mouth with a complex evolution of flavors. Its crystallized texture coupled with spiciness faded into a dry, sticky, sweet finish. Dipped in honey, this cheese enveloped my senses.

Ben Nevis was the next cheese. From Craftsbury, Vt., this is a raw sheep's milk cheese with a sweet nutty smell and a dry, crumbly texture. Hints of butter and caramel mirrored the candlelight in the room.

The fifth cheese was a Grand Cru Gruyère Surchoix from Monroe, Wis. aged for nine to 19 months. The sweet smell and mild taste morphed into a spicy, sharp finish with every nibble.

The sixth cheese was a Smokey Blue from Central Point, Ore. I gingerly raised a piece to my nose and inhaled the sweet, herby smell while examining the blue veins of mold. The mold is inserted into vats of milk, then, once the cheese sets, air pockets are created that help oxygenate the cheese, encouraging the mold to grow and spread.

"The Chinese call cheese 'rotten milk,'" said Roberts. I sucked on it, letting it dissolve on my tongue. It left memories of wood fire smoke in the back of my throat.

Finally, we came to the mystery cheese. I tasted the dry, sourness of the cheese, but barely had time to guess what it might be before Roberts announced that it was a Grafton cheddar, not yet released on the market.

Several things make it unique - it is made in the style of a traditional English cheddar, cloth wrapped and aged for 11 months, it is made with animal rennet and it is heat treated, a process that kills pathogens without destroying the quality of the milk.

As the tasting drew to a close, we nibbled on the crumbs of cheese left on our plates, savoring the flavors and immortalizing them in our minds, linking them to concepts and ideas - learning at the table.