Grapevine garners glowing review

Author: Emma Gardner

A good sandwich is hard to find, so when one falls into your lap, make sure you know where to find it again - chances are, the source is the Grapevine Grille. In the past three years at Middlebury I have made it my mission, my vocation, my life's work - call it what you will - to discover the best sandwich in Addison County, and striving for perfection has finally paid off.

Many students, particularly first-years, will be seduced by the initial flavor of Noonie's Deli upon their arrival at the College, espousing a hunger for the Purples Pleasure that becomes a nasty habit as the year goes on and the dining hall food starts to taste stale. Instead of opting for a microwaved concoction of avocadoes and who knows what else thrown between two thick slices of hard-to-swallow bread, students would do well to travel an extra ten minutes along Route 7 south in the direction of the Grapevine Grille.

Run by lively owner Nancy Geoghegan with the help of Charlene Potter, the deli has developed a devoted following in the three years since its doors first opened - only to close again and move farther down the road two years later. Students and locals whose discerning palettes long for more sophisticated tastes after the Purples has lost its Pleasure have discovered this delicious alternative, each in turn thinking he or she is the first to stumble upon the little-known eatery. Nestled away from the busy road in a quiet gravel driveway sits Grapevine's lone building, and the cozy, tiled space inside evokes a feeling of familiarity - even to newcomers.

Aside from remembering the names and favorite orders of her clients and fans, Geoghegan has made it her business to "get back to my roots and follow my passion for wine and food." Drawing from years of experience as operator of a catering company in Maryland, the owner initially learned to cook from a friend attending culinary institute in Delaware. "She got the piece of paper, but she taught me everything she had learned," explained Geoghegan. Her Maryland origins have influenced many of her dishes, and the eponymous cheese steaks and crabcakes have consistently ranked as top sellers. The selection of sandwiches varies widely and evinces Mexican, Cajun, Italian and French influences. With names such as "Avacada Davida" and "Take a Letter Fajita," the long list of options reflects a creativity and humor that quickly becomes evident as a major factor behind the owners' success.

While the warm atmosphere of the Grapevine Grille is infectious, the quality of the food alone is enough to provoke a daily pilgrimage of loyal customers. "We roast all our own meat, and the dairy is local," noted Geoghegan. "I choose the wines, and all of the dressings, sauces, aiolis and spreads are homemade."

Geoghegan also designs each recipe, often taking inspiration from her own favorite foods. "'Sage the Last Dance" is basically a recipe for a turkey sausage I like, laid out," Geoghegan explained. "I took all the ingredients in a sausage, added cheese, and made an aioli out of the cinnamon and sage." The taste of each sandwich reveals the extensive thought and effort put into its creation, and this attention to detail carries into the Grille's dinner dishes of skillfully executed pastas, soups and racks of lamb.

While the seating is limited due to the town's concern that the neighborhood remain relatively quiet and not become a "gin mill," as Geoghegan quips, Grapevine orders are available for delivery and pre-order. Nevertheless, the friendly reception and animated personalities of the owners are reason enough to venture past the limits of Middlebury proper to a deli that has garnered myriad Internet reviews - despite having no official online listing or web site. "I did not know we were online until a friend from Maryland surprised me one day, having found directions to the Grapevine Grille on the Internet," said Geoghegan. "The reviews were all great, although one person did call it the 'Hippie House.'"

Students growing weary of the gloom that pervades Noonie's should to travel to the Grapevine Grille, where they can rely on Geoghegan and Potter to serve up a meal that will unfailingly brighten a gray Vermont day. It is here that after quick drive, a bite of "Here Comes the Sun" promises to relieve stress, if not one's workload.