Local Flavor Tully and Marie's nixes tablecloths, taps casual dining market

Author: Andrea Glaessner

"It's the economy, stupid," seems to explain the retail and restaurant scene across Vermont these days.

As Americans pinch those pennies and start holding back on excesses, local restaurants find themselves in a position to change. Tully and Marie's, the eight-year-old restaurant that sits aside Otter Creek, is trying to lighten up and tap into the broader market of casual dining.

"We want to get students in," said Carolyn Marie, co-owner of Tully and Marie's. "I think we have a reputation of being more exclusive and expensive, special occasion kind of dining. But we want to get away from that. We stopped using tablecloths and it's kind of economic but also environmental. We're trying to change a little bit with the times."

Tully's, as it is affectionately termed in the local dialect, has made itself adaptable in a time when change is welcome. Tully's is a great option for a pleasant - and surprisingly inexpensive meal - and the brunch is exceptional. Here is a review of the new weekly specials at an old favorite:



Two for One Pad Thai Tuesdays

Although it is nothing new, the two for one Pad Thai deal at Tully's demands some recognition. What began as an attempt to lure College students to Tully's during the week for a laid-back and inexpensive meal, has become relatively successful since its inception. The deal makes the food worth the value. At a price range of $16-19 depending on your choice of chicken, shrimp or tofu, the Pad Thai is overpriced during regular hours.

It is certainly not authentic, but at a price of two for one, how can you turn down two plates piled high with flat Thai-style noodles mixed with slivers of scrambled egg, crunchy bean sprouts, chicken, shrimp, tofu or all three, and flecked with bright green scallion and crumbled peanuts? It is a lot of food - certainly more than one meal's worth - and at under 20 bucks for two, there is no question it is a good bargain for a night out on the town.



Wednesday Burrito Nights

It is not hard to make a good burrito, but it is almost impossible to make a great one. Tully's Wednesday special certainly fulfills the demands of the former, but in all honesty, leaves something to be desired. Whether you've got a taste for chicken with all the fixings, including a delightful homemade chorizo or the Vermont beef burrito with black mole, you will not leave hungry.

There are, however, questions left unanswered. First of all, if you are eating a burrito without guacamole somewhere in the mix, you might as well be starting a revolution that's doomed to fail, like the time someone suggested replacing brunch with "dunch."

Secondly, that atmosphere at Tully's, with their creek-adjacent view and quirky but charming staff, calls for something more than pre-mixed margaritas. For $4 a pop, it is a pretty good deal for an exotic mixed drink, but I can not help but imagine how much better things would be with the real thing. But in the end, a good burrito in the middle of winter is certainly worth the $10 dollar trade, but you might want to try a mojito pairing, just for kicks.



Thursday Burgers and Beer

Burgers, beer and the dream. That's Thursday night at Tully and Marie's. Okay, I will admit that at first glance it seems like a very masculine meal, but actually, even with three girls, it is - frankly - quite pleasant. What consistently amazes me about Tully's is the kitchen's ability to add something new to the most traditional of dishes.

I don't know if it is the more novel combination of additives or the way the burgers are cooked, but this meal works on a Thursday before a long night out. You might be looking forward to the rapture or you might be waiting for that special someone to give you a wink and a smile. Either way, take a second to enjoy. Hot, salty, crispy and with that perfect pinch of oil on a soft Kaiser bun, the McDonald's on Rt. 7 is going to have to step up its game.



Sunday Brunch

Brunch, by far, is Tully's best special. It is not only the most innovative, it manages to take what is traditionally delicious and transform it into something more delicious. There are three variations on the traditional Eggs Benedict - one is, obviously, the traditional two poached eggs served over a homemade English muffin and coated in decadent hollandaise sauce. That sauce is rich, and when combined with a hint of chipotle to make the memorable sauce that it is, becomes almost indigestible - but not quite. It is still just so tasty.

The chorizo is a nice touch - not too greasy and flavorful to the nth degree - and the homefries are a welcome addition to any of the brunch entrees. In fact, the garnishes are worthy of mention. Just as the chipotle mayonnaise stood out on the burrito platters, the homemade croutons in the soup specials are a lovely touch, standing up for the authenticity that was questioned in those margaritas.

The breakfast burrito was a delightful example of the way Tully's puts those homefries to use, stuffing them into a thick burrito full of fluffy egg and other vegetables in order to create, essentially, a vegetarian dream come true. In reality, though, the vegetarian dream is the Tofu Scramble - a mix of curry, turmeric, onion and other zesty flavors. But like the Pad Thai, do not be fooled: it is just not the real deal. It is not the best tofu decision, and might be better if it were spongiefied, fried or even fermented. Essentially, Sunday brunch makes up for everything that Tully's lacks Monday through Friday.