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Thursday, Apr 18, 2024

Restaurants heat up dining scene

It doesn’t matter how much of a quinoa fanatic you are, how many red velvet cupcakes you’ve been hoarding nor how desperately loyal you are to That Special Panini, because there comes a time of year — right about when the ugly sweaters begin to replace shorts and when you’re really questioning whether using your awesome room draw number to get a suite was really such a good idea — when you realize that you must consume something that has nothing to do with the College campus.

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Fortunately, the outside world has risen to the occasion. In the past three months, two new businesses have opened their doors and each promises to provide students with much-needed gustatory relief.

The most obvious change in Middlebury dining is the absence of Tully and Marie’s, the American dining stand-by overlooking Otter Creek. Jackson’s on the River, co-owned by Craig Goldstein and Chris English, who purchased the property in April, is now in its place.

In June, a new coat of yellow paint covered the walls and an — almost — entire overhaul of the menu was complete.

“We didn’t want to create a menu that was too evocative of Tully and Marie’s,” said English. “So we looked at the menu, saw what sold well, and asked people what they liked.”
English ensures that the Pad Thai is still there.

“We played with the recipe, and made it our own,” he said.

Though English hasn’t worked in the restaurant business before, his partner Craig Goldstein is a veteran. He has 35 years of experience in the food industry and English feels this is part of what makes Jackson’s unique, in addition to its beautiful location and its service concept.

That concept was born when Goldstein and English met as neighbors, and together decided to open a restaurant where customers would be served generous portions at reasonable prices. Both believe in the idea of “today’s comfort food.”  English says Jackson’s prepares dishes that “people would recognize from growing up, presented in an updated way.”
The feeling of “upscale comfort” is easy to find in Jackson’s new menu. Favorites include the regular and veggie burger, the baked mac ‘n cheese with bacon, chorizo and four cheeses and a Mediterranean chicken Milanese called “Craig’s Chicken Modena.”

“Given this economy, a return to things that are familiar and comfortable is a theme you see over and over again,” said English.

The co-owners hope to attract college students, and the restaurant will soon offer a promotion on the Midd Kid website, as well. Jackson’s price range is student-friendly, lower than Tully and Marie’s and many other restaurants in town.

“We think that there’s a place in the market, especially in Middlebury, for good, casual food served at a great price,” said English.

About half of Jackson’s menu, which includes lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch, is also vegetarian. Many items are vegan, too, as most food is made to order.

If you are in the mood for casual dining instead, then cross the street into Frog Hollow Alley, and you’ll find Green-Go’s. This is Middlebury’s one and only burrito cart, owned and operated by Kristin and Damian Bittrolff.  For over two decades, the pair has worked in the restaurant business, and the husband and wife team recently decided it was time to open something of their own. Damien’s expertise as a chef and Kristin’s as a manager have merged and created delicious and unabashedly “gigantic” burritos, as Kristin describes them.

“We make them [the burritos] to order, individualized to exactly what you want,” she said. “All [the] ingredients are fresh.”

The dishes includes hydroponic tomatoes, Vermont cheddar and chicken from Greg’s Meat Market, and this is part of what makes the chicken burrito the most popular item on the menu.
Green-Go’s is also a green business. All of its packaging is either recyclable or compostable, and the couple plans to continue their environmental efforts if they expand their menu to include salads, quesadillas and tamales.

“I’m in love with the beef burrito,” Kristin said.

Both the chicken and beef burritos are spiced with Green-Go’s special seasoning, a secret concoction that the pair formulated together. The Green-Go bean burrito is a blend of black beans with a choice of vegetable toppings and it is the final item on the lunch menu.

Catch the team before 11 a.m., and Damian will make you one of his delicious breakfast burritos, on a choice of spinach, flour or wheat wraps or a corn tortilla. The couple is currently experimenting with gluten-free rice wraps, blends of local peppers and they add as much heat to the burrito as one desires.

“We’re willing to try just about anything,” Kristin said.

Drooling yet? It gets better. The prices are reasonable; lunch burritos cost between six and eight dollars plus tax. However, given the size of the burrito, Bittrolff thinks one can often last for two meals. To top it off, Green-Go’s delivers free of charge, so you can still put in those five hours in the library.


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